Peugeot Paris U'Select 40cm Natural Pepper Mill, 23423

Exceptionally well-crafted, the Paris pepper and salt mills from Peugeot are traditionally styled of turned beechwood. This particular model offers the U-Select feature, which designates six settings on the base of the mill for precision grinding ranging from extra-coarse to powdery. The difference between the salt and pepper mills lies in the grinding mechanism. Peugeot pepper mills use case-hardened-steel grinding heads with two sizes of grooves; the larger grooves crack the peppercorns in half and direct them into the smaller grooves, which grind them much more finely than most mills. The grinding mechanism in Peugeot salt mills is purposefully constructed with 18/10 stainless-steel, which won't corrode from prolonged contact with the salt. The top of each mill unscrews for adding peppercorns and salt, while the round ball nut can be loosened or tightened to vary the coarseness of the grind.

Paris pepper and salt mills are sold individually and in sets. The mills come in a wide range of heights, from about 5 to nearly 20 inches, and in a variety of finishes, including matte chocolate, natural wood, and shiny blue, yellow, or red lacquer. Care for the mills is easy: clean the exterior and inner chamber with a damp cloth; never immerse in water; avoid putting salt in the pepper mill, or grinding green or pink peppercorns by themselves (mixed with black is fine); and avoid damp types of salt (usually pink or gray) in the regular salt mill. Made in France, Peugeot mills are covered by a two-year replacement policy, while the grinding mechanism is covered by a lifetime warranty. Peugeot has been a leading manufacturer of pepper mills since the 1840s, and is a brand preferred by many fine restaurants and chefs. --Ann Bieri